24 Jul 2020 --- The personal care industry’s slow crawl toward more environmentally friendly packaging materials perseveres. However, as smaller eco-focused brands grow in popularity, major industry players are increasingly seeking a proverbial piece of the eco-friendly action. In this special report, PackagingInsights takes a look at some of the most interesting eco-packaging launches within the deodorant business – one that has found it notoriously difficult to achieve zero waste packaging materials – and explore how novel packaging is taking an eco turn.
“The overall production of packaging and generation of packaging waste has been steadily growing over the past ten years. Also, the packaging sector is the biggest contributor to plastic waste, generating around 17.8 million tons in Europe in 2018, accounting for about 60 percent of post-consumer plastic waste,” Larissa Copello de Souza, Consumption and Production Campaigner at Zero Waste Europe, tells PackagingInsights.
Environmental sustainability is an overarching theme with high penetration in the packaging industry. The personal care sector is also making an effort, however, some ambiguity exists in the “true” sustainability of plastic-alternatives and how best to achieve circular material economies.
Within the deodorant packaging arena, products traditionally use plastic, especially for roll-on applications. While it is recyclable, often the plastics included range in kind, making recyclability difficult, as some recyclers may not accept the materials.
French brand La Bonne Attitude manufactures natural deodorants with a biodegradable cardboard tube packaging.On the other hand, aerosol deodorant applications are roughly 60 percent tin plated steel and 40 percent aluminium. Both of these metals are recyclable, but aerosols also contain some small plastic and rubber components including the lid, valve and dip tube. If these can be extracted in the recycling process, then the can becomes recyclable. This doesn’t change the fact, however, that most companies are not using recycled materials in the production of new products.
“It is important that not only personal care, but that all packaging placed in the market are environmentally sustainable or preferably reusable, fully recycled and made of toxic-free materials,” de Souza flags.
“There is no such a thing as sustainable products or materials, but rather sustainable systems. The environmental impact of a product will always depend on the overall factors of the system where it is inserted. Regarding deodorants, they can definitely be refillable and there are many brands already selling deodorants package-free, for example in bars applications,” she highlights.
Small players, major moves
Last year, during the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit 2019, in London, UK, Catherine Conway, the Founder and Director of Unpackaged Innovation, addressed the sorely overlooked issue of unsustainable packaging in the personal care industry. Speaking to PackagingInsights, she noted that the personal care industry has “been getting away with unsustainable packaging for way too long” and a dramatic change is necessary. Conway attributes this oversight to the fact that personal care involves products that are marketed as a luxury.
However, consumers are increasingly interested in the packaging their personal care products come in. In Europe, brands with more eco-oriented packaging prove very popular and companies such as the Lekker Company, which makes plant-based deodorants in eco-friendly, recyclable paper packaging, are having a moment.
“Our packaging is 100 percent carton and all the ink we use is vegan. For us sustainability in personal care is extremely important. On average we use nine products a day so the footprint of the cosmetic industry is huge. Every product for the bathroom nowadays has a sustainable option, we can really make a difference with choosing these,” Dewi van de Waeter, Founder of the Lekker Company, tells PackagingInsights.
The brand worked with design agency Thonik, based in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. “We are extremely happy with the result, we kept our iconic carton packaging with the circle and the pop of color. We like that we choose very bold colors as this is uncommon for natural products,” van de Waeter notes.
P&G launched an all-paper tube edition for its Secret and Old Spice deodorants across Walmart stores in the US.Other notable small players that are making waves include the French brand La Bonne Attitude, which is manufacturing natural deodorants with zero plastic in their packaging. The products’ packaging consists of a biodegradable cardboard tube to reduce single use plastic.
The design includes earthy tones, with leaves and fruit that reflect the different scents of the products. The company has also committed to planting one tree for every product purchase to further its beneficial impact on the environment.
“There are many brands already selling deodorants package-free, for example in bars, such as Lush Cosmetics. But there are also other small local brands of deodorants in bars that can be found in packaging-free shops. Personally, I make my own deodorant as it is really easy to make and I can ensure all the ingredients are natural, toxic-free and waste-free,” says de Souza from Zero Waste Europe.
Major players try eco-formats
Inspired by smaller brands and consumers’ increasing desire to protect the environment, major personal care players are making major moves. The impact that heavyweights such as L’Oréal or Unilever can have by switching to more environmentally sustainable packaging can be dramatic. In this spirit, L’Oréal boldly pledged that 100 percent of the plastics used in its product packaging will be from either recycled or bio-based sources by 2030.
Recently, it was announced that Tubex and Unilever are releasing a deodorant can made of patented aluminum alloy and 25 percent real post-consumer recycled (PCR) material. The can will be used for Unilever’s Rexona deodorants.
Tubex notes that the use of alloy and a slight change in shape makes Rexona Recycled Refreshed 14 percent lighter than its predecessor. This substantial weight reduction is the result of the joint development between Unilever, Tubex, and the slug supplier Neuman Aluminium. Moreover, the product is only partially lacquered, whereas regular cans are usually fully lacquered on the inside. Tubex highlights that this saves on resources.
Aerosol deodorant applications are roughly 60 percent tin plated steel and 40 percent aluminium.In May this year, P&G also launched an all-paper tube edition for its Secret and Old Spice deodorants in the US, across Walmart stores. The move helps the company and its brands reach the goal of using 100 percent recyclable or reusable packaging while cutting petroleum-based plastic in half by 2030.
The paper tube package contains invisible solid aluminum-free deodorant available in new scents made with essential oils: Secret Rose + Geranium and Old Spice Cedar & Salt.
P&G Beauty enlisted help from consumers who offered their opinions during the development phase. “We co-designed this package with consumers who are interested in cutting back on plastic waste. The majority of Gen Z consumers have high expectations for environmentally friendly products,” says Freddy Bharucha, Vice President of Personal Care for P&G Beauty.
If this market test is ultimately successful, P&G Beauty pledges to expand the all-paper package across more of its line-up.
Despite these moves, however, the personal care industry still has a long way to go to meet the environmental sustainability demands that the global eco-sentiment dictates. As consumers become more demanding, the industry is expected to further adapt and adopt more eco-friendly packaging formats.
“Moving toward reusable packaging or even no zero packaging for the personal care products that can be package-free is the way forward to a circular and sustainable economy,” de Souza concludes.
By Kristiana Lalou
